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Rosé..Time to Think Pink

7/2/2019

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​Would a rosé by any other name taste as sweet? Of course I am referring to the ever-popular American creation White Zinfandel vs. classic rosé.
 
Truth be told, there is a real difference between rosé and white zinfandel. White zin is made by either cutting short the fermentation process to leave in residual sugar or by actually adding sugar to the wine to create a sweetened concoction often referred to as blush. This sugary sweetness can be attributed to countless hangover-like headaches from over indulging. Real rosé on the other hand is fermented like other red or white wines and can vary in flavor and body from light and fruity…just beyond sticky sweetness…all the way to bone dry. Rosé can be quite sophisticated, especially sparkling wines and champagnes showing up on store shelves for well over $50 a bottle…even getting more than $100 for the very best vintage brands.
 
Rosé is usually created by crushing the grapes normally used for red wine and only allowing the skins to be in contact with the juice for a very short period. Thus limiting the amount of color from entering the fermentation tanks. Sometimes producers bleed, or add in, a small amount of red wine from a particular vintage to what would otherwise be a white wine to give extra flavor, as well as the famous color.
 
While rosé comes from all over, the most popular drier versions are from Europe, with France as the main provider. Italy and Spain, however, have shown their own resolve in making fine pinks. Here in America, the line is a bit more blurred because of the sweeter blush cousin. Increasingly however, we are seeing more and more true rosé from the U.S. coming into homes and restaurants. Most of the American versions I’ve tried tend to be more fruity than the European versions. This is possibly a sign that some producers know that if they stray too far from the white zin crowd they might not sell, but more likely it is the other way around. They see that real rosé has a chance, but they first need to slowly pull the American palate away from the sweet stuff.
 
Even with the popularity of Rosé these days, I still often see the look on a customer’s face when I recommend a rosé. They tend to look a bit scared. They often have an image of some cheesy 1970’s Niagra Falls scene with a heart-shaped tub and a bottle of $5 champale. This has relegated the poor rosé into the world of cheap and sweet wine-like products. in fact the usual response is "I don't like Rosé..it's too sweet."
 
Banish that thought and give rosé a chance. If you normally enjoy drier white wines, then try a nice dry French or even Spanish version that can resemble a lighter, fruitier version of a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. If you really like the sweeter blush wines, then try a new world Rose like a Malbec-based one from Argentina or even Rosé D'Anjou from the Loire Valley in France that can be slightly sweet.  These often avoid the sugary sweetness while exhibiting copious amounts of fresh berry fruit. Either way you will experience what is possibly the perfect picnic wine…light, fruity and about as compatible with any lighter fare as you can get.
 
It’s easy. This season just think pink when you drink. 
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Wine and Chocolate

3/1/2019

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I realize I haven't posted in awhile, and with Valentine's Day past us and chilly weather still hanging around I felt we all need something delicious to warm our hearts and stomachs. So how about a wine and chocolate tasting?


Chocolate is a wonderful match for red wine. Whether the wine is big and dry, light and fruity or even sweet, you can match chocolate to it for a wonderful tasting experience.

 The Chocolate has to be right

OK, this is important. Don’t simply buy a candy bar at the store checkout, and definitely dump the idea of the heart-shaped box of assorted filled chocolates. You need to locate some nice, hand-made chocolates for the best results.

First a quick lesson. Chocolate comes from the Cacao bean. These beans are fermented, roasted and pressed releasing Cocao solids (sometimes just referred to as Cocao) and Cocao butter. The latter is what makes chocolate creamy. The former lends the flavor characteristics and coloring. The higher the percentage of pure solids the most extracted flavor you get. Cocao solids also contain a high amount of antioxidants, making them somewhat healthy.

Dark chocolate contains the most solids and is less sweet and even slightly bitter. Milk chocolate on the other hand is made with a higher percentage of Cocao butter along with milk solids, making it lighter and creamier. Finally, white chocolate contains Cocao butter but none of the solids. As such white chocolate isn’t considered a true chocolate per se.

The different types of chocolates available will give you different taste sensations when paired with wine. I suggest an assortment of fine dark chocolates and even some milk chocolates. Some people recommend white chocolate as well, but the lack of flavor intensity may make pairing difficult.

Gourmet chocolates aren’t cheap, but the quality is so much higher than typical store bought. If you want to save money or cannot find a good chocolatier then look for bars of dark chocolate with a high Cacao percentage. This is often advertised right on the label. For example, Hersey makes one called “Extra Dark” and has 60% Cacao. Just remove the wrapper and break it up for better aesthetics. There is also often better quality European milk chocolate available in grocery stores away from the candy stand at the checkout.

 
Quality of Wine Should Match Quality of Chocolate

Once you’ve chosen your chocolate, make sure you pick a good quality wine that will deliver the experience you are looking for. Ask your local wine merchant for a Zinfandel or Cabernet to pair with your dark chocolate. An intensely complex wine with lots of cherry, cassis and spice will work well. A $5 one dimensional, fruity cabernet may not give you the same experience.

Milk chocolate with it’s creamier texture and lighter flavor pairs well with a lighter, fruitier wine like Pinot Noir. Some very inexpensive Pinto Noirs, while enjoyable on their own, simply lack the complexity you are looking for in this case. Something with layers of fruit, a little spice and balanced acidity will be perfect.

If you really have a sweet tooth try a Tawny Port as well. The big, robust flavors and sweetness will match the flavorful, slightly bitter aspects of the dark chocolate well.

Always start your tasting with the lighter wines and chocolate and move to the heavier, bolder ones. Then have some fun mixing up the combinations and see what tickles your fancy.

The best part about wine and chocolate tasting is that it is perfect for an evening with your loved one or even a large group of friends.

Enjoy!



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Have a Sparkling New Year!

12/14/2018

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I enjoy a bit of bubbly all during the year, yet many people only pop the cork on a sparkling wine once or twice for special occasions, like New Years or, um…Arbor day.

As we go to holiday parties and prepare for the ringing in of the new year we often default to the old standby of Champagne. Don’t get me wrong…Champagne is wonderful, and many are drawn to the famous labels like Veuve Cliquot, Moet & Chandon or Dom Perignon each year. However, these labels can cost a lot of money and do not always deliver the biggest bang for the buck.

Since Champagne is called that because it comes from the Champagne region of France, there is often a premium to pay for the well-known wines coming out of that area. The main grapes used in Champagne production are the common Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varietals, so you can often find wonderful sparkling wines made in the same “Champenoise” method as true Champagne but without the expense. Look at unlikely areas such as South Africa or New Mexico for some wonderful sparkling wines that are very reasonably priced yet competitive to some of the pricier French counterparts. You can also look within the Champagne region and look for what are considered “Grower Champagnes.” These are small producers who do not compete on a global scale with the monster estates so are more inclined to sell their Champagne for much less. In addition the quality often far exceeds that of the well known labels.

Now if you are willing to try something new, but definitely have an itchin’ for something French then look to other regions, like the Loire Valley where they produce terrific wines from the Chenin Blanc grape. Vouvray is just one area within the Loire that makes many types of wine from Chenin Blanc…including sparkling in both dry and semi-dry versions.

Now let’s say you’re going to your bosses holiday party and you want to impress with something that tastes great but will cost less than $15. Look to our friends in Spain or Italy. Spanish cava is as crisp, dry and delicious as fine Champagne but often costs a fraction of the French counterparts. Italy’s Prosecco is another option. Prosecco is a bit lighter and fruitier than other Champagne-style sparklings, but can be a refreshing change. It is especially good at lighter meals like Sunday brunch.

Alright, so you’re still insisting on Champagne, and you want a famous label because “that’s all my friend will drink,” or some other excuse, but you just don’t understand what all those French descriptions on the label are. Well here is Stu’s somewhat easy guide to “what-the-heck-does-that-mean-on-the-label:”

Vintage – A Vintage Champagne will have a date on the bottle. This means it was produced from grapes that particular year. Due to changes in weather, crop yields and other factors, Vintage Champagnes can differ from year to year. These also have some aging potential that allows them to improve over time. Vintage Champagne is usually produced only in the best years and can be very expensive.

Non-Vintage – NV Champagnes are the most popular and abundant around. These consist of blended wine from different years in order to produce wines of consistent quality. While there is some debate as to whether these will further age in the bottle, these are really meant to be consumed at any time.

Blanc de Blanc – This means that only the white Chardonnay grape was used to produce the Champagne. Blanc de Blanc is sometimes a bit off-dry and a somewhat lighter-style.

Blanc de Noir – A “white wine made from red grapes.” This is all Pinot Noir. The juice is squeezed but not allowed to come in much contact with the skins – which impart the color -- so the liquid stays clear.

Brut – This is the classic dry Champagne style most people know best

Extra-Dry – This confusing term actually is less dry than Brut. A hint of sweetness can often be detected.

Sec – Technically means dry, but in Champagne is slightly sweeter than Extra Dry or Brut. Rarely seen in the U.S.

Demi-Sec – Semi-dry. These sweet versions are often better accompanying dessert than with meals. The most popular next to Brut and Extra Dry.

Doux – This is the sweetest version and is not often seen at most stores.

Of course, no discussion of sparkling wine would be complete without touching on the topic of Rose or Pink Champagne. Unlike the images of junky Champale of the 70’s being sipped on a heart-shaped bed in Niagra Falls while your 8-track player plays Barry White, true Rose sparklers can be wonderfully refreshing and range from quite sweet to bone dry. Rose is made by bleeding-in or adding red wine to the clear juice, or in some cases allowing the skins to be in contact with the juice for a short period. Due to the extra work involved and the smaller quantities produced, the cost of Rose is often higher than it’s paler sibling.

This New Years, make a resolution to expand your knowledge and try different styles and varieties of sparkling wine. You may find that famous labels or spending more money won’t necessarily get you a better product, but enjoying it with friends and family can make any bottle taste better.

Have a happy, healthy and safe holiday.


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Wine Suggestions for Thanksgiving

11/16/2018

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The question of what wine to serve with the Thanksgiving meal causes much consternation, even among experienced wine drinkers. But here’s one piece of advice that everyone can agree on: Drink what you like!

But if you don’t know what you like — or if you like just about everything — it’s hard to know where to begin. Our wine expert in residence, Stu Levine, owner of Vino 100 in White Plains, has a few suggestions to get you started. Stick with bottles that can match with most everything, from turkey to sides and even pie. Here his six picks for wines: three reds and three whites.


Here are 6 Thanksgiving Wines 2013:

Whites
2011 Hugel & Fils Riesling ($18). From Alsace, France. Riesling, long acknowledged as a sweet wine, truly shines in it’s drier form. In fact Alsace is known for its dry wines, despite the expectation of sweetness. This wine has lots of minerality and bright acidity that is tempered by its apple and pear fruit. Given all the mixed sweet, tart and starchy aspects of the Thanksgiving meal, this wine helps cut through that and add a refreshing match to the meal. 2010 Pfaffenheim Gewurtztraminer ($17). From Alsace, France. Here I am with Alsace again, but this time the lesser known Gewurtztraminer varietal. This dry white has richness, pronounced fruits and a spiciness that works quite well with the dishes served at the Thanksgiving table. One taste and you won’t compare it to Riesling anymore.

2010 Three Saints Chardonnay ($19). From Santa Barbara, Calif. Chardonnay? Don’t be fooled by the typical over-oaked Chardonnays of Northern California. Sometimes this widely enjoyed varietal can fool you. This particular wine from down in the cooler Santa Barbara region has the oak and vanilla flavors people love, but with a tropical fruit aspect that makes this so enjoyable on its own or with turkey. This wine is a great way to combine familiarity with a little something different.

Reds
2011 Soléna “Grand Cuvée” Pinot Noir ($22). From Williamette Valley, Ore. Pinot Noir has been enjoyed for a very long time with the big turkey dinner. The main reason is that while not heavy, it offers up a lot of flavor without overpowering the food. Turkey and all the fixin’s can be hard to pair with, but Pinot Noir with its red cherry, raspberry and herb flavors really works here. 2011 Chateau D’Aigueville Cotes du Rhone Villages ($14). From Rhone Valley, France. Grenache-based wine with some Syrah as well. This is the wine for the person who wants a little more body than Pinot Noir and likes wine with more earthiness, minerality and some spice. Don’t get me wrong, these aspects are equally matched by the dark fruit flavors that make this wine work well at the big feast and is as elegant as a wine at twice the price..

2010 Santi Solane Valpolicello ($16). From Veneto, Italy. This wine is produced in the Ripasso style, which ages the wine on the skins of the grapes to extract extra flavor. This wine is full-flavored and rich, but not overpowering … which is good when you don’t want to wipe out the delicate flavors of grandma’s sweet potatoes. Consider this wine instead of Zinfandel and bring a little Italian into your Thanksgiving.

#wine #vino100wp #lohudfood


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Wine of the Week

10/30/2018

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2010 Chateau Du Bois De La Salle Morgon ‘La Croix’: Much more powerful and complex than the typical Beaujolais thought of this time of year, this wine is elegant and passes along its deep expression of terroir from the region. Red cherry, raspberry, earth and crushed stone flavors abound.

Region: Beaujolais, France.

Price: $17. Goes with: Turkey, chicken, cheeses and even light pasta dishes.

Why I chose it: It’s time to think about Thanksgiving, and Beaujolais has gotten a bad rap over the years. True Cru Beaujolais, like this Morgon, can be quite sophisticated while still retaining its lighter style. The perfect turkey wine!

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Wine of the Week

10/19/2018

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Vinicola Palama ‘Arcangelo’ Primitivo: Full-bodied and lush, with jammy plum, blackberry, leather and spice flavors and a long finish.

Region: Puglia, Italy.

Price: $16.

Goes with: Turkey, steaks, stews.

Why I chose it: Many people don’t realize that primitivo is a close relative to the American zinfandel grape. It produces a bold wine that is lighter and less alcoholic than its domestic relative, so it’s a great choice for dishes that may not stand up to the huge American version.

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Fall Wine Picks 

10/12/2018

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Here is the article that ran in the Journal News yesterday with my wine picks. Enjoy!


As the weather gets cooler and darkness falls earlier and earlier, our tastes in wine shift, too, from lighter, fruitier whites to fuller-bodied, richer reds.So we asked Stu Levine, owner of Vino 100 in White Plains and our wine expert-in-residence through Thanksgiving, to choose eight great red wines to enjoy on these chilly nights.

“The wines I chose represent the shifting tastes of autumn,” says Levine. “And the final wine, a Port, works right through winter with its dark, sweet fruits and being fortified with brandy. Port is very warming and welcoming on a cold night!”

Here are his selections.

2010 Loranque Tempranillo ($14). The same grape used in the famous Rioja’s can be had for a bargain from other regions in Spain. A medium-bodied wine with enough flavor to stand up to most foods without being too heavy. Fruity nose with hints of vanilla and oak. Velvety finish. Region: Toledo, Spain. Pair with: Tapas, roasted pork loin.

2009 Haraszthy Family Cellars Solus Sto Zinfandel ($15): True Zinfandel — not that pink sweet stuff — is big, rich, bold and in-your-face delicious. This big wine has chewy plum, berry, leather and black pepper flavors. Region: Amador County, Calif. Pair with: steaks, prime rib or even roasted turkey.

2009 Teorema Garnacha ($12): Grapes are harvested from vines from 40 to 100 years old for a fuller-bodied and more concentrated flavor of sweet black fruits and soft tannins. Region: Calatayud, Spain. Pair with: Roasted meats, cheeses or stews.

2009 Chateau des Mille Anges ($24): This stellar vintage produced many great wines, but a wine of this caliber for this price is outstanding. Oak, dark cherry, cassis, leather and a touch of earthiness make this a classic-style Bordeaux. Region: St. Germain De Graves, Bordeaux, France. Pair with: Rack of lamb, filet mignon or a nice Camembert cheese.

2011 Michel Torino Don David Tannat Reserve ($18): What a wine! An underappreciated grape varietal slowly becoming more well known. A great Cabernet Sauvignon substitute. Big dark fruits, chewy tannins and a lingering finish that makes this wine seem like something twice the price. Region: Calchaqui Valley, Chile. Pair with: Beef kebabs, strong cheeses.

2010 Collemattoni Rosso di Montalcino ($21): Many think the famous Brunellos from Italy are out of reach for everyday drinking. But for a fraction of the price you can enjoy its baby brother … Rosso di Montalcino. Basically the same wine, but aged for less time and under less-strict guidelines. The result is you get to enjoy this wine’s red fruits, bright acidity and elegant style for a pizza- night price. Region: Tuscany, Italy. Pair with: Grandma’s famous Lasagna, pizza, Italian cheeses.

2010 L’Arneseque ‘Cuvée Capelane’ Chateauneuf Du Pape ($44):
This famous region is where the French popes vacationed. Today it is known for its fantastic wines based on the Grenache grape. Often blended with Syrah and Mouvedre, as in this case, the resulting wine is big, powerful and opulent with dark fruit, spice and noticeable tannins. This wine is also organically produced. Region: Rhone Valley, France. Pair with: Hearty stews or roasted game.

2008 Dow’s Late Bottle Vintage Port ($22): The ultimate fireplace wine. LBV Ports are aged in barrels for a number of years, then bottled to create the drinking experience of an aged vintage Port but without waiting decades. Sweet and opulent, this fortified dessert wine is a treat. Region: Douro Valley, Portugal. Pair with: Stilton cheese, almonds or just on its own, relaxing in a recliner by the fire.

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Wine of the Week

10/5/2018

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Prospero Finger Lakes Riesling: Despite the reputation for upstate New York White Wines being sweet, this riesling is done in a dry style similar to Alsatian rieslings. Yet it still retains its crisp punch of lemon zest, apple and mineral flavors.

Region: Finger Lakes, N.Y. Price: $15.

Goes with: Asian foods, spicy dishes or any richly sauced dishes that can be countered with this wines bright acidity.

Why I chose it: A lot of people shy away from both New York and riesling wines for their sweet tendencies. Yet when you try something bright and fresh, like this wine, it can open your eyes..and palate..to a whole new dimension in wine styles.

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Wine of the Week

9/28/2018

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2010 Chateau la Pigotte ‘Terre Feu’: A 50/50 blend of cabernet and merlot, this Bordeaux might seem young, but is ready to drink now. Lots of red and black berry fruit, clove, cinnamon and leather aspects, make this wine a screaming—and deliciou—success.

Region: Bordeaux, France.

Price: $15.

Goes with: Rack of lamb, braised chicken.

Why I chose it: The famed Médoc on the left bank of Bordeaux, has recently blessed the world with more and more value-oriented wines of quality. This is a fine example of a wine that drinks comparatively to wines twice its price. And you don’t have to age it for decades to enjoy thanks to its high percentage of softer, younger aging Merlot.

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Wine of the Week

9/21/2018

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2009 Cuvelier Los Andes: Big and bold blend of malbec, merlot, cabernet sauvignon, syrah and petit verdot aged for 12 months in French oak. Dark and red fruits, leather, spice and oak flavors entice the palate. So well balanced none of the flavors overwhelm.

Region: Mendoza, Argentina.

Price: $21.

Goes with: This is a wine that calls for a steak, roast prime rib or perhaps a grilled veal chop, but a rich pasta dish will also work.

Why I chose it: Mendoza has gotten so famous for straight malbecs, but there are fantastic finds in blends, too. Made by a French family from Bordeaux, this wine is an incredible value for the quality you find in the bottle.

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    Stu Levine is a Certified Specialist of Wine (CSW). He owns LeVino Wine Merchants, a boutique wine shop in White Plains, NY.

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