With Passover coming up so soon it’s time to start thinking about holiday wines. For many Jews though, Passover is a time to eat and drink kosher, even if during the rest of the year they don’t observe kosher law. Since many people don’t normally drink kosher wine, I felt it was a great time to take a look at a wine category I myself have held a long-time curiosity about.

Certainly growing up drinking sweet Concord grape Manischewitz every Passover really didn’t do much to foster an appreciation for the finer varietals available. I even have a dirty little secret…I like the stuff. Yeah it’s sticky sweet and cheap, but on Passover it brings back memories of my childhood. Also, if you’ve read my articles you know I use Manischewitz as my main ingredient in Sangria. So it has its uses.

Let’s face it though. You pull out the good crystal, set your finest china and you cook for hours to get the meal perfect, and then you drink some $5 sweet jug wine. Maybe it’s time to “kick it up a notch,” as Emeril Lagasse would say. Today’s contemporary kosher wines can be as good or even…dare I say it?...better than non-kosher varietals. You do have to sift through some iffy wines that are out there, but if you have a wine proprietor you trust they can help steer you to the good stuff. Almost all the main wine producing regions in the world produce kosher wines, but some standouts are from Israel, Spain, France and Italy. And if you’re not sure about Israeli wine, remember they have been producing wine for thousands of years. They know what they are doing.

OK, so kosher wine is good. Now, how do you know if it is truly kosher and what different levels of kosher are there? It can be confusing to understand the aspects of what makes a wine kosher…and why?

Kosher, by definition, means proper or correct. It is simply a way to make food or drink proper for consumption. Koshering wines came about from the Torah teachings that state Jews cannot drink the same wine as idol worshippers. So they created a method of producing wines that made them “proper” for use.

Kosher wines are normally labeled either “Mevushal,” which we’ll explain later, or either “Non-Mevusal” or “Kosher for Passover” on the back label. There are often symbols delineating the wine as kosher on the front label as well.

Making a kosher wine starts from the very beginning of the planting process. In Israel in particular, grapes must be planted in fields where no other fruit or foliage grows along with the vines. No grapes may be used to make wine for the first four seasons, and every 7th year the vines must be left untouched without making wine from the grapes.

During the harvest, only observant male Jews are allowed to work on wine production, and 10% of the final product must be discarded. This is a tradition that dates back to ancient times when 10% of the production was given to the high priest or rabbi.

One interesting thing that does not actually happen is that there are no blessings made over the wine. By simply following the traditional rules of winemaking and having them supervised by a rabbinical council or special certification agency, the wines will be considered kosher.

“Kosher for Passover,” may sound obvious, but what about Mevushal? Because non-Jews or unobservant Jews often handle the wine after bottling (such as a waiter in a restaurant), some wine goes through another step which makes the wine Mevushal, or cooked. This isn’t as bad as it sounds. Years ago before the process was perfected, wine could be damaged by this process. Now with modern flash pasteurization, which instantly brings the wine just below the boiling point and then immediately cooled back off, the wine is barely affected. The process allows the wine to remain kosher even if handled by those popular pagan Roman soldiers working at all the best restaurants these days.

You may be surprised to find out that many renowned non-kosher winemakers throughout the world use a similar pasteurization process, but are very quiet about it due to the negative image it may give. Even famous French estates like Chateau Beaucastel and Louis Latour use flash pasteurization. They claim it helps stabilize the wine and prevents any bacteria growth.

The steps taken by kosher winemakers may sometimes seem strange or archaic, but like so many traditions followed by people of all backgrounds, they endure from generation to generation. They are important not necessarily because of any true physical significance of the actions, but simply because they represent a connection to the past and a dedication to following the written word of a higher power.

Almost every popular style of wine or liquor has a kosher equivalent, so it isn’t necessary to give up any particular favorites this time of year. Even special wines like Sauterne, Moscato and sparkling wine (albeit using Passover-friendly kosher yeast for the fermentation process) are available. And, many hard alcohol spirits are kosher as well, including most single malt scotch and many of the non-flavored vodkas available.

Here’s a suggestion: Try having a kosher wine tasting dinner before Passover with your friends and family as a way to try some of the great wines out there. Then you can narrow down your choices and alleviate some of the stress Seder preparation can foster.

So put out of your head any negative thoughts about the quality of kosher wine and make your Seder meal a true all around gourmet experience. Doesn’t all your hard work deserve it?

I originally published this article a few years ago. I felt that because so many people overlook these fantastic dessert wines from Portugal that it deserved to be revisited. While it is usually sweet and red, there are white ports that can be sweet or very dry. So here’s a little refresher on Port wine to help you choose the perfect one for those cold, winter nights here in the northeast.

First a little history. Port wine is often associated with being a very rich, sweet fortified wine from the Douro Valley in Portugal. The name Port comes from the town Oporto located at the mouth of the Douro River – the historic cellaring and exportation center for the wine. Despite everything, the wine is not originally a creation of Portugal. During the 17th century, England was at war with France, making it difficult to obtain wine. So the British went to Portugal, a long-time trading partner. The wine they found was of somewhat lower quality and the English sailors transporting the wine added distilled spirits, or brandy to make it more palatable and to stabilize the wine for long sea voyages. This resulted in a highly alcoholic wine product that with some tweaking has become the standard for fortified wines around the world.

While more than 30 grape varieties are grown in the Douro Valley for Port production, only a handful are heavily used. The most well known and widely utilized is Touriga Nacional, one of the country’s highest quality varietals. A versitile grape, it is also used extensively in Portugal’s non-port wine production.

It can be confusing when shopping for port wine because of the different styles and varying prices from well under $10 to “hello bank, I need a new line of credit.” So to help quell any confusion, here are the most common styles of port:

Vintage Ports

While only representing two-percent of the total Port wine production, Vintage Port is the patriarch of the family. Only released in certain years deemed worthy by the producer and then given the approval by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto or IVDP -- Portugal’s governing body for Port wine, these wines are lush, rich and ageable for what seems forever. These are the ports that get the big ratings and demand the highest prices – especially for particularly good years like 1994. Patience is key though. These are not wines to pick-up and drink right away. They are blended from different vineyards and only aged for a short time in wood barrels, so they need at least 15-20 years in the bottle. Even Ports more than 50 years old can continue to improve. So despite a high rating or great review of a younger vintage, realize that it takes into account the future drinkability, not neccessarily today’s enjoyment level. Younger vintages can be found for well under $60, but expect to pay $80 - $200 for top years like 1994 -- with prices skyrocketing for even older vintages.

Note: To save money and aging time, look for Single Quinta Vintage Ports. Unlike most vintage Ports that blend grapes grown in different vineyards, these are produced from a single vineyard, or Quinta. Single Quinta Ports are sometimes from non-declared vintages and often aged longer before bottling, thus reducing the aging recommendation to as little as 8 years once bottled. The biggest appeal though is the price, which can often be half that of typical vintage Ports.

Late Bottled Vintage

Now let’s say you want an aged Port, but don’t feel like waiting even a few years. Then Late Bottled Vintage Port may be your answer. These are ports that may not have made the cut for Vintage bottling and are left for another few years in wood to mature. Once aged they are placed in the bottle and labeled LBV, or Late Bottled Vintage. Usually you can see the date of harvest as well as the bottling date on the label. These are ready to drink and will not improve much more over time. Typically priced from $20-$40.

Ruby

Very abundant and cheap to produce, these are rarely aged in wood barrels opting instead for 3-5 years in concrete or stainless tanks, which helps maintain the bright ruby-red color. These are the sweetest and least expensive on the market and do not improve with age once in the bottle. Typically costing less than $15, these are great everyday ports for drinking or cooking (Think lamb with a Port wine reduction).

Tawny Reserve

These are blended wines from different batches which are aged for at least six years in wood barrels before going into the bottle. The result is a more rust-colored wine that while sweet is less clawing that ruby. Priced in the $15 -$25 range.

Note: There are also inexpensive Tawny’s that do not indicate “Reserve.” These are permitted to have little or no barrel aging and while often very drinkable are generally inferior to the Tawny Reserves.

Aged Tawny

Aged tawny port is a blend of several vintages with the average age clearly indicated. They are classified as 10-year, 20, 30 and some older versions more than 40 years old. The quality of these ports can be outstanding and is another great way to enjoy aged port without waiting. The prices on these tend to range from $20 to more than $100.

White Port

Less popular than red ports, this wine is derived from one or more white grape varietals and can be sweet or dry. Served cold, it can even be used in mixed drinks or served as an aperitif. White Port is relatively inexpensive and ranges from less than $10 to $20 or so.

Unlike many wines, once opened most Port will not go bad overnight. This is thanks to it’s hefty 20% alcohol content. A re-sealed bottle can last weeks if stored in a cool, dark place, or refrigerated in the case of White Port. The exception is the older vintage ports, which are more delicate and need decanting after their long stay in the bottle. These should be consumed within 24-hours of opening.

The popularity of the wine has influenced producers throughout the world. Here in the U.S., for example, Port-style wines are being produced with local grapes like Grenache and Cabernet Sauvignon, and are generally well received. Look for some very good versions from California, Australia, South Africa, France and even locally here in New York.

You need to try the different styles to find your personal favorite. And, as great as Port is by itself, it’s even better when paired with cheese or nuts…especially Stilton and Almonds. The nutty flavor of the wine and counter-balance of salty and sweet mesh beautifully and is a great alternative to dessert.

So stoke the fire on a cold night, cuddle-up and enjoy a glass of port. It will make the time you’re stuck inside just a little more enjoyable.

I talk a lot about types of wine, producing wine and the enjoyment of wine. One other aspect that is very important is the storage of your wine once purchased.

Even wine stored for a short time in extreme temperatures can be harmful. Yet while some people don’t take proper care in storing their wines, others take it to the opposite extreme – building elaborate cellars to maintain constant temperature and humidity when it may not be needed.

Although proper storage is important, what you are storing needs to be addressed as well. While spending tens of thousands of dollars creating a safe hideaway for your prized Bordeaux’s may be worthwhile – especially if you are purchasing wines as an investment – other times this can be a waste of time and money.

Most of us purchase wine for consumption, not long term storage. Purchasing a bottle or two of wine to have with dinner within the next few weeks will do fine in a simple wine rack, or even standing-up.

A few caveats here: Never store wine in direct sunlight or near a radiator or other heat source. Try not to store wine in your kitchen, since this room typically has the wildest temperature swings in the house. 

The majority of wines in a wine shop turn over fairly quickly so storage isn’t as much an issue. At home though, if you are planning on storing wines for extended periods you want to ensure your long-term wines don’t spoil. Here are some important factors to consider:

Temperature

One of the most important things is to make sure your temperature is cool and more importantly steady. Ideally a room that consistently maintains between 55-60 degrees is best, but unless you are storing wines for decades then you can get away with a room that is slightly warmer. Just keep in mind that wine stored in warmer temperatures will age faster. Most importantly, the temperature of the room should be consistent. If you have swings from 60 degrees in the winter to 80 in the summer that is not ideal and you may find some bottles going bad.

Humidity

As important as temperature is, humidity is equally important. If the room is too dry then the cork will shrink, allowing air to penetrate the wine and you will start to lose bottles. If you can maintain 50-70 percent humidity that will keep the cork moist. Much higher though and the labels will start to mildew.

Humidity is much easier to control than temperature, and you can inexpensively add a humidifier or dehumidifier to a room to handle this job.

Light and Vibration

Light is fairly simple. Wine likes to be in cool, humid and dark areas. Having a light on for a short time to choose a wine for dinner is fine, but as light penetrates bottles over time the ultraviolet rays can harm wine. Light also produces heat which, again, is unwanted.

Experts vary on how important a lack of vibration is to wine. Some say unstable storage areas can harm wine, others disagree. My advice…if you have a room with above normal vibrations from pipes, machinery or other sources, try to find a better area.

Size of Collection

Where you store your wine ultimately comes down to how much you have to store. If you simply want to put away a dozen or two bottles for a few years then invest in an inexpensive wine refrigerator. You can store anywhere from 12 – 100 bottles and have the self-contained unit maintain all the necessary variables for you.

If you are determined to sock away a few hundred bottles of wine for long term aging, then consider a large wine cabinet with a cooling unit or even building or retrofitting a room in your house for your collection.

If you are lucky, you’ll have an area…likely in the basement…that stays consistently cool with good humidity all year, and with minimal effort you can have what is called a passive cellar.

Most people aren’t that lucky. In that case building a wine storage room requires a special cooling unit – sort of like an in-wall air conditioner. This type of room is called an active wine cellar, and can cost much more due to the strict construction requirements in order to allow the cooling unit to work efficiently.

If you do determine that you are ready for a true wine room, then opt for something that will hold more bottles than you already own or plan on getting. Once you have caught the wine collection bug, you’ll find that space gets filled up quickly.

Just beware, creating storage in your home can be a costly procedure, from a few hundred dollars for a simple wine refrigerator up to tens of thousands for a large insulated room. So make sure you know what you really need...not just what you'd like to have.

Finally, enjoy the wines you do age. Too many people wait for the “right” occasion to open that special bottle of wine. Sadly that occasion never seems to come, and the collection grows, but the ultimate pleasure from your years of hard work is never realized.

With a movement towards natural foods, it is an obvious move for many to seek out organically-produced wines. But are they good? And what does organic in wine really mean anyway?

The answer to the first question is yes! Organic wines can be very good…award-winning even. It’s the bad ones out there that bring down the image…just like bad kosher wines did for their image.

As for what makes them organic? That’s not as straightforward. The use of the term organic is much broader than many think, and sometimes loosely interpreted. First, there are true certified organic vineyards that are tightly regulated by the USDA. They go to a certification agency and abide by specific practices that allow them to label their bottles as organic….including, but not limited to, cutting out the usage of additional sulfites, which retard spoilage.

Unfortunately, this certification often ties the hands of winemakers who are unable to ever experiment with new methods that may not specifically fit in the outlined terms. Costs involved are often more as well since to be certified you need to pay for oversight and certification, as well as the extra cost involved in cultivating and producing your product.

Many winemakers opt to use organic methods, but not get the certification. This way they can keep some costs down while allowing themselves the freedom of change in the future. Some use terms such as “biodynamic” or “sustainable” that often confuse as much as invoke thoughts of a healthier product.

The fact is much of what is done by winemakers and those tending the grapes in the vineyards is organic. The few exceptions, such as the use of certain pesticides or fertilizers, is really the difference between conventional and organically grown.

OK, you are still awake and reading this, so you actually want to know more. Well, let’s break down the winemaking process into two parts, the treatment of the grapes in the vineyards and the making of the wine itself.

Vineyard Management is a Key Component

One of the most important aspects of growing grapes is to achieve the best quality and most abundant crop possible. Insects and other pests can significantly contribute to the demise of a successful growing season. There are two ways to handle this. Use traditional chemical pesticides and fungicides, or find a more natural method. Obviously organic vineyards aren’t spraying Agent Orange all over the fields. So how do they do it?

There are natural minerals and products like boric acid that help control insects, and in many cases vineyards are employing certain bugs to control others.

Ladybugs are a top choice. Tens of thousands of these fruit and vine-friendly guests are released each year into the vineyard to eat the ravenous bugs that devour the vines and fruit. I don’t suggest this method for your home vegetable garden however, since you and your neighbors will be swarmed with the little critters. One is cute, ten thousand in your living room is…well…not.

There are also specially bred wasps that kill specific disease carrying pests that are being used. Again, not a big fan of this one for your tomato garden.

Weeds and rodents are another issue. Often, specific vine-friendly and bug resistant plantings are allowed to grow naturally between the vines so as to choke out weeds and prevent soil erosion. They also help retain moisture in the soil so less watering is needed.  Other innovative methods, such as owl boxes, cats or even hawks are employed to keep out voles, mice and other unsavory guests.

Often trial and error, along with some home remedies are used. Tweaking with the methods is a constant activity of the vineyard managers.

Making the wine…and why you want to love sulfites

So the grapes made it to the winery intact. Now they have to be turned into wine. This part is much easier for the organic winemaker, because chemicals, additives and artificial ingredients are not used in wine production anyway. Yeast is used to guide the fermentation process, but it is a natural product and some are even certified organic. The only other big question is sulfites. What are they? Why are they used? And, does it cause headaches and other problems?

Sulfites are simply derivatives of natural sulphur. One of the biggest misnomers is that organic wines do not contain sulfites. Only the USDA certified organic wines are required to not use extra sulfites. Biodynamic or sustainable wines may and usually do use sulfites in winemaking.

Why? Because sulfites act as a natural preservative and help stabilize the wine for aging. They prevent microbial growth and eliminate funky odors that some sulfite-free wines generate. Grapes naturally contain sulfites, so even if the producer did not add extra there is naturally some in the bottle anyway. In addition, sulfites are naturally produced during the fermentation process by the yeast.

Many winemakers do try to limit the amounts they add, and a few even found ways to eliminate the existing sulfites in the wine so they are virtually sulfite-free. This is rare though, and as I mentioned the wines can sometimes have odors or flavors inconsistent from bottle to bottle. If you really want to try a sulfite-free wine, ask a wine merchant if they have one they recommend. There are a few surprisingly decent wines produced this way…most are not.

Now, one of the most asked questions ever! “Why do I get headaches from the sulfites?” The answer is…You probably don’t. Sulfites are not the cause. At least not for most people. They are added in very small amounts -- often equal to 10mg per glass on average. Most people who have issues with headaches tend to experience them predominantly with red wine. The fact is that sulfites are naturally present in red grapes, but in even higher amounts in white grapes. So your headaches should occur more with white wine. The exception is if you are actually allergic to sulfur.

You can test to see if you have a sensitivity to sulfites. Eat a small 2 oz serving of dried apricots. These typically contain 10 times the amount of sulfites in a glass of wine. If these don’t give you a headache then sulfites are definitely not your problem.

The term organic has often had a negative connotation with regards to wine sales, but winemakers are finding they can produce delicious wines that are not affected in anyway from chemicals or man-made fertilizers. It’s time to try some of the fantastic wines out there that just happen to also be organic, er sustainable…uh biodynamic…whatever.

Owning a wine shop and writing about wine I have often heard from people concerning the confusion between sweet and fruity, and how a dry wine can also be fruity. It’s amazing how these seemingly three simple terms cause so much consternation.

Part of the problem is that there are so many types of wine, different varietals, blends and even fluxuations in flavors within wines from the same grape.

Let’s start out with what dry really means in wine. Dryness is often based on alcohol level. Drier wines often contain a higher alcohol percentage. However, while this may technically be true, lighter, fruitier tasting wines like Pinot Noir for example can have a relatively high alcohol level but not come across as dry.

And some heavier, high alcohol wines like Zinfandel or Shiraz are often referred to as fruity or…dare I say it…sweet. Yes, dryness can be confusing, and when you add in things like tannins or oak aging this can also add to uncertainty.

Tannins, the phenolic compounds derived from the skin, seeds and stems of the grapes, add character to wine and create that fuzzy, cottonmouth feeling you get from red wine. Tannin can make even a fruity wine seem drier from it’s effects. Oak aging can increase this tendency since the oak can increase the perception of dryness in wine.

On the opposite spectrum is sweet. Easy enough, sweet wine has residual sugar (RS) left from the fermentation process. Easily detected in dessert wines, very slight RS levels can add a fruity, sweetness to dry wines that takes the edge off of the tannins and other oak compounds detected by the drinker.

Fruity though is another story. This is where many people get most confused. While sweet wines are fruity generally, not all fruity wines are sweet. Sure a rich, fruity Shiraz or Merlot may come across as sweet to some people when what they are tasting are the fruit aspects of the wine. No residual sugar may be detectable, but sweet is the first description to come to mind.

The problem arises when customers approach a store clerk and ask for a sweet red wine. The clerk may innocently sell them some wine loaded down with extra residual sugar, when the customer really didn’t want that.

To add to the confusion, winemakers knowing the sweet tooth many American wine drinkers have have been flooding the market with sugary wines for decades. White Zinfandel is one of the main culprits. This sweet, pink wine has given angina to many a dry rose producer. And even big red wines like Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon aren’t safe from the RS wielding winemaker trying to find a new market for their wines.

I like to think about it this way. A fresh orange is fruity. It does have sweetness, but it is more juicy and refreshing that sweet. On the other hand an orange flavored lollipop is downright sweet with sugar being the first taste sensation.

When tasting wine see if the wine has that refreshing fruitiness to it as opposed to sugary sweetness. Then experiment with different wines, dry and sweet, to see the differences. Here’s a trick. Pour a glass of lemon/lime soda like Sprite or 7-UP. Find a wine that is dry, although quite fruity. Take a taste of the soda and then a taste of the wine. How dry the wine actual is will come out more with the sweetness of the soda on your palate. If the wine still seems sweet after the soda, it may has a little sugar in it.

So when you shop for wine make sure you specify whether you are looking for a sweet or fruity wine so as to help the wine merchant get you the right wine.

Would a rosé by any other name taste as sweet? Of course I am referring to the ever-popular American creation White Zinfandel vs. classic rosé.

Truth be told, there is a real difference between rosé and white zinfandel. White zin is made by either cutting short the fermentation process to leave in residual sugar or by actually adding sugar to the wine to create a sweetened concoction often referred to as blush. This sugary sweetness can be attributed to countless hangover-like headaches from over indulging. Real rosé on the other hand is fermented like other red or white wines and can vary in flavor and body from light and fruity…just beyond sticky sweetness…all the way to bone dry. Rosé can be quite sophisticated, especially sparkling wines and champagnes showing up on store shelves for well over $50 a bottle…even getting more than $100 for the very best vintage brands.

Rosé is usually created by crushing the grapes normally used for red wine and only allowing the skins to be in contact with the juice for a very short period. Thus limiting the amount of color from entering the fermentation tanks. Sometimes producers bleed, or add in, a small amount of red wine from a particular vintage to what would otherwise be a white wine to give extra flavor, as well as the famous color.

While rosé comes from all over, the most popular drier versions are from Europe, with France as the main provider. Italy and Spain, however, have shown their own resolve in making fine pinks. Here in America, the line is a bit more blurred because of the sweeter blush cousin. Increasingly however, we are seeing more and more true rosé from the U.S. coming into homes and restaurants. Most of the American versions I’ve tried tend to be more fruity than the European versions. This is possibly a sign that some producers know that if they stray too far from the white zin crowd they might not sell, but more likely it is the other way around. They see that real rosé has a chance, but they first need to slowly pull the American palate away from the sweet stuff.

I often see the look on a customer’s face when I recommend a rosé. They tend to look a bit scared. They often have an image of some cheesy 1970’s Niagra Falls scene with a heart-shaped tub and a bottle of $5 champale. This has relegated the poor rosé into the world of cheap and sweet wine-like products.

Banish that thought and give rosé a chance. If you normally enjoy drier white wines, then try a nice dry French or even Spanish version that can resemble a lighter, fruitier version of a Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc. If you really like the sweeter blush wines, then try a California rosé. These often avoid the sugary sweetness while exhibiting copious amounts of fresh berry fruit. Either way you will experience what is possibly the perfect summer picnic wine…light, fruity and about as compatible with any lighter summer fare as you can get.

It’s easy. This summer just think pink when you drink.

You may think you know Chardonnay… it’s that rich, oaky, buttery wine from California…right? Well it is much more than that. Chardonnay is one of the world’s most popular and prolific white wine grapes. In fact this varietal is planted in more places around the world than any other grape variety…red or white.

It’s origins are believed to have begun in the Burgundy region of France some time in the middle ages. The name “Chardonnay” is derived from a village in Burgundy by the same name and the first mention of the grape was written by monks around the year 1330. These same monks are believed to be the ones who spread the grape throughout France.

Burgundy, of course, is still the mecca of Chardonnay in the white wine world. This region produces elegant wines that are aged in French oak, which is lighter and less pungent than the American variety used extensively here. Burgundies can often further age in the bottle for years, creating a mellow, honeylike color and richness. Some of the more famous regions in burgundy, such as Puligny Montrachet or Mersault can be quite pricey, but many bargains are also available.

Chardonnay is also used extensively in the production of Champagne. Originally a rival winemaking region to Burgundy, sparkling versions of the wine were first discovered by accident during the 1600’s when during shipping warm weather set off a secondary fermentation causing carbon dioxide to form. A few decades later, a monk named Dom Perignon perfected a method to purposely induce CO2…thus officially marking the beginning of Champagne’s transformation to exclusively producing sparkling wines.   

Chardonnay wasn’t widely planted here in the U.S. until the 1930’s. It took another four decades for the wine to become popular. In the 1970’s Americans started liking the heavier style of California Chardonnays, partially caused by the heavier American oak used for aging.

California producers also incorporated a process known as Malolactic Fermentation, or Malo for short. This is a second fermentation where a special bacteria is added to the wine and begins to breakdown the crisp, tart Malic acid in the wine, chemically changing it to the creamier lactic acid (the same as in milk products). The final product has that well known buttered popcorn flavor. This style is also popular amongst other new world winemaking regions like Australia, Argentina and South Africa as well. Older regions like France have generally steered away from this or have substantially lessened the amount it is used.

Take away the oak and the manipulation though and you can be quite surprised. The grape itself is surprisingly neutral in taste. Instead of imparting it’s own flavors, Chardonnay takes on flavors from outside sources, not unlike Tofu in the food world. The typical oak aging often introduces vanilla and woody flavors to the wine, while the wonderful wines of Chablis, which are famously un-oaked, in the northern outskirts of Burgundy are known for their chalky, steely, mineral-like flavors associated with the limestone soil of the region.

The grape can be such a chameleon that sometimes it is virtually impossible to tell that a wine is made from the varietal. Macari Vineyards on long Island makes a wine called Early Wine. It is made from estate grown Chardonnay grapes, yet the way they make it in stainless steel tanks with no oak aging and no Malolactic fermentation creates an almost Riesling-like wine, with crisp Granny Smith apple flavors…almost like a sour-apple candy but without the sweetness.

So even if you have a preconceived notion on how Chardonnay should taste, realize that there are many different styles of the same grape that have developed over hundreds of years. While one style may not suit you another may turn out to be a favorite.

So taste Chardonnay for the very first time…again.

So virtually all of us have experienced sweet wine in one form or another. Many times through trial and error drinking cheap wine products in college…ala Boone’s Farms, and later graduating to White Zinfandel – a better quality product, yet still capable or putting you into a headache producing sugar coma.

Unfortunately this image of the sticky, sweet, flavored mishmash stuck in a wine-shaped bottle has left a lasting impression that isn’t always favorable. There is nothing wrong with strawberry-like flavors in your wine, but it should never be an artificial additive. Nor should red #5 or Blue number whatever ever be associated with wine.

Here’s an easy one to remember: If there is an ingredient list on a wine bottle…move on. Wine should only contain grapes (or other fresh fruits in the case of fruit wines) and in most cases some natural ingredients, like sulfates and yeasts to retard spoilage and help the natural fermentation process.

Well I’m here to whisk you away from these bad memories and the accompanying hangovers, to introduce you to sweet wines that are amongst the finest wines anywhere. Yes you can drink sweet and still be respectable.

Starting at the milder end of the spectrum try a demi-sec Vouray from the Loire Valley of France. This slightly sweet Chenin Blanc offers stone fruit flavors and a rich, mouthfilling flavor in a lighter-bodied wine. The sweetness is present but not overpowering and made to match well with food.

Speaking of matching well with food, I’ve previously mentioned how well Rieslings go with food. These wines -- most well known from Germany -- come in styles from completely dry to slightly sweet all the way up to thick, sweet dessert wines with enough sugar to keep the dentist busy. The key though is the acidity which counters the sweetness. This makes it food friendly as well as balanced, so you can avoid those nasty sugar headaches.

Another option is to try a sparkling wine that is off-dry. Again, you can find demi-sec champagnes but also look for more unique wines like Jean-Paul Brun’s FRV 100, a sparkling semi-sweet rose made from the Beaujolais-grown grape Gamay. The berry and strawberry flavors are addictive and while you can drink this with savory foods, it will also pair nicely with desserts like chocolate-covered strawberries or fresh fruit tarts.

Want something a bit less sparkling, look to Moscato D’Asti from Italy. This sweet, light, peach nectar-like drink is slightly fizzy, but so refreshing and low in alcohol you may drink the entire bottle yourself. Brachetto D’Aqui, also from Italy, is a red, fizzy, semi-sweet wine similar to Moscato, but with more body and tart berry flavors. Both work beautifully on a hot summer day with some fruit or cheese or just sippin’ on the porch swing.

And of course you can’t forget that Spanish specialty…Sangria. Simply mix wine with fruit and juice or sugar and have a great time.

Want my secret Sangria recipe?

1 part Manishewitz Concord Grape wine (trust me)

1 Part dry, medium-bodied red wine

Splash of peach schnapps or triple sec

Chopped apples and oranges (peaches are great too!)  

Simple mix in a pitcher, place in a fridge for at least 3 hours and enjoy.

It gets even better the next day!

There you have it, a quick rundown of sweet wines that you can enjoy without feeling embarrassed telling people you like sweet wine. Of course there are many more, so as I always say, go out and talk to your local wine merchant to find out what they have available and try new things.

Now go relax and enjoy some sweetness…and wipe out those bad memories of yesteryear.

It’s warm out, and you have time to kick back and relax a bit. Perhaps a picnic is in order. Whether it be at the park, a campground or the beach, eating al fresco is always a great way to get out and enjoy the day. Some people get frazzled by the idea of matching wine with picnic food, but it can be a lot of fun and increase the pleasure of the meal.

Being a wine guy, I am always asked to help pair wine with food. Well, here are some suggestions for the perfect picnic:

First, remember it is warm and you may be active…especially at the beach. So keep the food light and fresh. Lots of fresh fruits, veggies and dip and cold entrees. I love cold fried chicken or simple sandwiches like brie and ham on a baguette.

Next, you’ll want to pair wine that is delicious, yet not overpowering for the food. try a light, fresh dry rosé or New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Served cold, they are refreshing with the fried chicken or sandwiches.

Generally stay away from heavy reds like Cabernet Sauvignon or Zinfandel that are higher in alcohol. These can seem very alcohol driven and heavy when served warm and will not be refreshing or very food-friendly on a hot day.

If you truly prefer reds, then stick to lighter selections like Pinot Noir, Beaujolais Village or some Cotes du Rhone. These can be chilled slightly to make them more drinkable in hot weather without ruining the delicate flavors of the wine.

To really make things interesting why not plan an outdoor wine and cheese party? Invite some friends and pack up a bag with an assortment of cheeses, breads, fruit and perhaps some prosciutto, salami or other dried sausages. Then get a nice selection of unique and delicious white wines like Torrontes, Vermentino or Albarino, some rosé and one or two lighter reds (again, Pinot Noir or Cotes du Rhone will work well here). Your friends will be very impressed and you will have so much fun trying the different combinations of food and wine.

Or for another twist, do a tasting of sparkling wines. For this stick to lighter bubbly like Prosecco, but in addition add in some rosé spumante and Spanish Cava. Then pair with some cheeses, shrimp or crab cocktail. Perhaps finish with a Moscato D’Asti, whose slight effervescence, floral-like quality and sweetness refreshes the palate and matches well with desserts like pastry or a fruit tart.

Picnics can be much more than a deli sandwich and a soda. The possibilities are endless if you open up your mind and palette to the interesting and delicious flavor combinations warm weather wines and foods can bring to the party.

Just make sure you wait 20 minutes before swimming.